Lubeck-Hamburg

I had really been looking forward to seeing Hamburg. My brother has visited several times and was particularly impressed by the Rote Flora anarchist clubhouse in the Sternchanze district. I could have spent a great deal longer in Hamburg. The city feels really energised but is not too vast or overpriced to become overwhelming.
Being a weekend in the middle of July it was virtually impossible to find accomadation which didn't cost a small fortune but I did eventually find somewhere half reasonable at 2 in the morning in the sex district!
Probably the most defining aspect of Hamburg for me was the proximity of heavy industry to the cultural centre of the city. On the south bank of the Elbe, right in the centre of town, the cities shipping industry builds, loads and renovates everything from container ships to oil tankers. Cranes and docks working day and night stretch along this bank in both directions for miles. Regeneration along the north bank of the Elbe is at full tilt and I have never seen as many construction cranes in my life. There is a real buzz in the air.
Throughout my trip I have endevoured to sample local foods and I did not realise how unique the culinary character of Hamburg was until I came across a very fine restaurant opposite St.Michaelis church. The Old Commercial Room is a fantastically adorned restuarant. From the signed photos on it's walls it seemed that there was not a celebrity on the planet who had passed through Hamburg and not eaten there Right Said Fred, Samuel L Jackson, Henry Kissinger.
I explained to the waiter that I was after a local speciality and he recommended without hesitation the Lobscouse. Not only was this dish served only in Hamburg he informed me, it also took a long time to prepare from an unusal cut of beef and came with a certificate detailing the recipe and commemerating the experience. I don't think I have ever been as excited or intrigued before the arrival of a dish before.
Lobscouse is a paste of beef which has been hung for about a month and potatoes. It is then served with two fried eggs on top, pickled cucumber and beetroot. As I was warned the appearance of the dish was not going to blow me away. This was somewhat of an understatement!
The paste tasted fine with the egg yolk and pickles but after that quite bland. Certificate in hand however I was not disappointed. Sometimes the weird, wonderful and unique are satisfying for being these things alone.
Pictured here is the interior of St.Michaelis church a quite incredibly ornate building, the view from the top of the spire and wood carvings in the church doors. The meal of Lobscouse. A viewing platform on the waterfront. Three men in the traditional dress of German carpenters on their graduation day. Street lighting on the waterfront. The interior of the Rote flora anarchist house and a video of a punk band there.